Sunday, February 8, 2009

Tips for the right needle

Needle Info

SUK is a medium ballpoint needle (usually used for lycra)
FFG (the most common ballpoint) is light ball
H is a sharp
HS is a stretch sharp
HJ denim sharp (also good for buttonholes)
HM microfibers
HE embroidery
N topstitching
NTW wedge point leather/suede needle

Singer doesn't use these designations, just the ball/regular ones.

(BTW, Singer needles often don't work in a European/Asian machine well, and Schmetz don't work well in many Singers. Slightly different needle lengths = miserably skipped stitches.)

Needle sizes are numeric:

70/10 for lightweight stuff like crepe de chine, batiste, light rayons
80/12 for velveteen, cotton twill and similar medium weights
100/16 for denim, upholstery
120/18 for really heavy upholstery, luggage, shoes.

If you use too thin a needle, it tends to break and also to cause thread weakening. Too thick a needle usually leads to puckery seams and holes along the seamline.



Needles - to - Fabric types

Regarding your question on what needles to use with what fabric.

60/8 Universal - silk, organza, chiffon, sheer

70/10 Universal - Blouse & lightweight dress fabric

70/10 Microtex - Batiste, crepe de chine, microfiber

75/11 Stretch - Interlock knit, lycra

75/11 Quilting - Quilting through various batting

80/12 Embroidery - rayon thread for decorative stitches & embroidery

80/12 Universal - Cotton, linen. wool

80/12 Metallic - Metallic & decorative thread

90/14 Jeans - Denim, canvas

90/14 Stretch - Fleece, knit, faux suede & leather

110 & 120 (not wing)- wonderful for pinstitching in heirloom fabric

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